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It's hard to miss Mathilde Batardière and Wolfgang Castellanos Bejarano's pretty barge when strolling along the Maine, on Quai des Carmes. With its blue, orange and white paint and superb terrace with views of the cathedral and château, it's one of the most pleasant places in summer. In winter, the cosy interior welcomes lovers of fine wines and top products. Mathilde, the sommelier, has put together a menu of excellent local references and wines from further afield, while Wolfgang works in...